Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

English Scones Recipe INGREDIENTS: # 2 cups sifted all-purpose flour (256gm) # 1/4 cup (60 gm) white sugar # 2 ½ tsp (12ml) baking powder # 1/2 tsp (3ml) baking soda) # 1/2 tsp salt (3ml) # 1/4 cup &...

It is a trend, but it's not a problem. It's the same thing with your paints. After they sit for awhile, the components separate out (they are in a suspension). Still good, just need to be remixed.

It's right alright. The tube has sat for awhile, and the parts have separated. You need to shake it up, and squish it around inside the tube to get it all mixed up again. If you squeeze out too much of the runner red stuff, the rest of the putty in the tube will be too dry, and thick. But it will st...

Always put decals on a smooth gloss surface. :) Even if the final colour needs to be flat. Use the gloss version of the colour you want, clear coat, decal, clear coat, and then dull coat if needed. The reason for clear coating before decals is give you a barrier in case you mess up the decals and yo...

Looks like typical "silvering". Only way to fix that is to get new decals, and make sure you apply them over a smooth, gloss surface.

I got all my bits at an auto/hardware supply store. Only because they were closer, and I needed to make several trips as I figured it all out. But CT should have all the bits.

Get the biggest, most powerful one you can afford. Really. Since you are a Canuckian, Canadian Tire has sales all the time. Look for something in the 3.5 SCFM @ 40psi (casting pressure) or greater. They should have all the other bits you will need as well. AND, if you don't have one near you, they d...

Cardboard is fine. The coated stuff (like cereal boxes) is better. Some of the surface paper may come off, and stick to the mold. To reduce that, just spray it with mold release, or grease it up with Vaseline. Or, you could line the box with white printer laser paper. I use old paper (print outs tha...

Sorry. It was a 5 gallon, not 10. Too many numbers in my head. GET OUT!! GET OUT!!!

What?? Yeah, I'm feeling better now, thank you.

This is the pot I got - 5 Gallon Pressure Paint Tank

Anyone know of a place in Canada that sells these pressure pots? I'd rather not import it and deal with the duty if possible. Importing (with duty and taxes) is still cheaper than getting one in Canada. I just picked up a 10 gallon pot for $100.00 from the US. The exact same pot here in Canada can'...

I have some graduated cups but they start at 1 oz, not fractions of an ounce under 1. I'll check CVS and RiteAid tomorrow. Yeah, those are not going to work. You need the graduated ones. The ones I have 1cc increments. Instructions do say to heat the mold at about 150*. What's an easy way to do tha...

How long are you letting the cast sit before demolding?? SC305 is the SLOOOOOWWWW set stuff. It calls for 30 minute demold time, leave it for at least one hour. As modelnutz mentioned, temp is a factor. As well as something called cross sectional area. Or, in layman's terms; the thicker the piece, t...

Do you design by building or design on paper? Do you use a CAD design program? Yes, and yes. It all depends... Randomly open threes kits, and put the parts on the bench. See how they might fit together. It may not be the design you will build, but it might inspire you with shapes, and patterns and ...

No problem. Glad I could help. If you use your resin quickly, or semi-fast, you don't need to do that. Just make sure you can seal the containers well. For your vacuum pump, how much air it can move is not all that important. How strongly it can pull that air, that is what you need to know. For dega...

This gas system, or any inert gas, is designed to minimize the amount of moisture than can leech into the resin BEFORE casting. Once you break the seal on the containers of Part A, and Part B, the resin begins to absorb moisture from the air. By removing the air, and replacing it with an inert gas, ...

Resin will stick to resin. But... Surface prep, like with paint, is important. Any contaminants on the surface must be removed. Best way is to sand the surface with 220. As for gluing the metal... Did you use epoxy?? That's the way to go. CA, and others will/can fail over time depending on the stres...

Thanks Alex. Looks like I just need to be patient. Ugh!! :roll: Knowing this now, I'll change the way I do things I guess. Don't have much of a choice. I really liked using lego. I could replicate the size of a mold, infinite configurations for boxes, reusable (until now)... Pressure Casting all the...

The spills are on my lego, I use to make the mold boxes. So, after evacuating the rubber, the lego is covered with a very thing layer. I NEED the lego so I can make more mold boxes. And cleaning all that lego... Well, I'm not happy about that at all. :evil: Anything I can do to accelerate the curing...

OK folks, I switched from my trusty GI-1000 to Smooth-On's Mold Max 30. I have now poured my first set of molds. I am both delighted, and disappointed. It's mixing/pouring quality is great, feels no different than GI-1000. The cured MM30 is great. Feels and behaves just like GI-1000. But... That lit...

What you need dude??


No job too small.
No charge too excessive.
No deadline met.

Wait. What??

How much curve?? It has a bit of a memory. So you can just bend it (gently). It will spring back, but not all the way. Repeat as needed. As far as the oven outside issue... Not an issue. The only time you have to worry about it is if you do catch it on fire. But if you keep the heat down below it's ...

WarpeD wrote:This is a chance to be creative. It's also a chance to cause a fire.

Those two things go together very well.

Yes, you can do that. The melting point of styrene is 240 °C (460 Fahrenheit). So, you can do a lot with it BEFORE it melts. It's the main plastic used in vacu-forming. The main issue with heating styrene, at least with sheet styrene, it has a tendency to curl. A lot depends on what kind of forming ...

Finish a kit?? I don't know WHAT you are talking about Dr. Yo. Sometimes you are so funny!! The key is practice. And then more practice. And then... You get the idea. You WILL make a lot of mistakes. But as long as you learn (something) from them, it's all good. Call it, research, yeah, that's it!! ...

Place some masking tape to the back of the PE fret. Place the fret on a flat, hard surface, face up. A piece of glass works. Using a rounded blade, place the blade next to the attachment stub, and roll the blade over it, applying moderate pressure. The tape will stop the part from going POING across...

Something thin, and slow setting. While an epoxy isn't thin, the slow set time allows you to add just the amount you need, and time to place it properly. In many cases, I don't even use glue. I have set the PE parts into a wet coat of primer, and then once dried, apply a second coat to seal the part...

I was told by someone else that each bulb had an internal bypass, but that must be the function of the third wire. The third wire is there JUST to supply power to the extension cord function. And yes, the bubs do have a shunt for when a bulb goes out. But, they almost never work. Hey! What to you w...

Does it have an AC outlet on the end?? If so, then the third wire runs power from one end to the other so you can plug another set into it. Think of it as a regular extension cord, and the lights are wired between the two normal wires, like a lader, or in electronic/electrian speak, in parallel. If ...