Making Clear Windows
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Making Clear Windows
Made sticky, because it's a useful subject
Hey folks
I see a lot of people who use clear resins for filling the windows and portholes on star trek models. Is there a drawback in using clear thick CA for the same purpose? You know the process of drilling out the window, applying scotch tape to the outside of the part and then filling from the inside. Just wanted some info about this. Thanks
Hey folks
I see a lot of people who use clear resins for filling the windows and portholes on star trek models. Is there a drawback in using clear thick CA for the same purpose? You know the process of drilling out the window, applying scotch tape to the outside of the part and then filling from the inside. Just wanted some info about this. Thanks
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I've heard of others using it. Myself, I used it to fill in some spots in resin windows I'd casted that had some tiny pinholes. I just used some CA to fill them and any low spots. Looked fine after I wet sanded it. You could always experiment on some scrap plastic. There may be size limitations for one thing.
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- TER-OR
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It's tricky, and the adhesive can cause a problem. Best to put a bit of tape or plastic over the adhesive, giving it a nice smooth surface.
CA can haze, if you try this make sure you use a fresh container.
CA can haze, if you try this make sure you use a fresh container.
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Terry Miesle
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- BERT aka MODEL MAKER
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That's what I useBERT aka MODEL MAKER wrote:try testors clear parts cement/window maker
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http://www.modelingmadness.com/reviews/ ... ebeech.htm
I use envirotex light pretty frequently for larger-scale windows. I think I did a fair job describing that process in this article. If you have more questions, let me know.
I use envirotex light pretty frequently for larger-scale windows. I think I did a fair job describing that process in this article. If you have more questions, let me know.
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Terry Miesle
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- Glorfindel
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I've used Elmer's glue for masking, but not for windows. It does yellow and it doesn't really stick well--it peels up easily, so sanding is out.
BTW, I've been using Devcon 5 minute epoxy, which dries very close to water-clear. It's a bit thick, so it can be tricky filling small windows. But it does wet sand well. Also, from what I understand, it will eventually yellow as it ages. I'm all right with that as it wouldn't be too noticeable with smaller windows.
BTW, I've been using Devcon 5 minute epoxy, which dries very close to water-clear. It's a bit thick, so it can be tricky filling small windows. But it does wet sand well. Also, from what I understand, it will eventually yellow as it ages. I'm all right with that as it wouldn't be too noticeable with smaller windows.
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It can be done from the outside, but the tape adhesive might cause troubles. In that case, tape a bit of clear cellophane in the tape where the window will be, and adhere it in place.. I learned that the hard way.
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Terry Miesle
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I've been trying lately to use the testors window maker myself with horrible results.
While the Elmers white glue does yellow over time, has anyone tried the elmers gel? I just made some windows using it and so far it's worked beautifully. It spreads great with my putty knife and is drying now. The gel doesn't go anywhere except where I wanted it to go.
I'll toss up some pics of it tomorrow after it's dry and let you guys be the judge.
While the Elmers white glue does yellow over time, has anyone tried the elmers gel? I just made some windows using it and so far it's worked beautifully. It spreads great with my putty knife and is drying now. The gel doesn't go anywhere except where I wanted it to go.
I'll toss up some pics of it tomorrow after it's dry and let you guys be the judge.
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Ok, here's a test I did with the Elmers gel.
http://i844.photobucket.com/albums/ab1/ ... C11501.jpg
Don't mid how bad the "eyes" are made, I haven't finished em yet. The digital couldn't get much closer than this pic without going outta focus so I hope you can at least get an idea as to how the glue came out.
http://i844.photobucket.com/albums/ab1/ ... C11501.jpg
Don't mid how bad the "eyes" are made, I haven't finished em yet. The digital couldn't get much closer than this pic without going outta focus so I hope you can at least get an idea as to how the glue came out.
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I like Ter-ors method best... Mainly because he knows better.
So here is an update Terry...
My trick is to use Smooth-on 202 Crystal clear. Ten minute pot life. Dolluped in with drops from a toothpick. I work in sections.
The tape dam I use on the model exterior is 3M Scotch Magic
The tape is transparent. Easy to see air pockets in the corners. So after the resin is dropped in flip the part over while the resin is still liquid.
A fresh sharp #11 blade pokes though the tape... trapped air goes out.
liquid resin fills in.
Remember to work in sections... put the model hull parts aside and pull the tape off next day. Any resin residue is sanded away. Repeat onto the sections until done.
As all these procedures are done before masking windows with 3M blue or Tamiya yellow tape... then priming and painting finish colors.
So here is an update Terry...
My trick is to use Smooth-on 202 Crystal clear. Ten minute pot life. Dolluped in with drops from a toothpick. I work in sections.
The tape dam I use on the model exterior is 3M Scotch Magic
The tape is transparent. Easy to see air pockets in the corners. So after the resin is dropped in flip the part over while the resin is still liquid.
A fresh sharp #11 blade pokes though the tape... trapped air goes out.
liquid resin fills in.
Remember to work in sections... put the model hull parts aside and pull the tape off next day. Any resin residue is sanded away. Repeat onto the sections until done.
As all these procedures are done before masking windows with 3M blue or Tamiya yellow tape... then priming and painting finish colors.
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That's certainly faster than the Envirotex Light, which needs a day - but it's easy to remove bubbles. Does the adhesive screw with the resin clarity? For an Enterprise, it's not a big deal, you probably want it semi-opaque. For clear windows, it's more trouble.
Raised by wolves, tamed by nuns, padded for your protection.
Terry Miesle
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Terry Miesle
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- Joseph C. Brown
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Here's a new product that I just picked up today: Elmer's Clear Glue.
http://www.dickblick.com/products/elmer ... hool-glue/
I have no idea what it's long-term yellowing may be like, if any. I need to toss together a 'beater' model that has a canopy and use this stuff on it. I am already using it this afternoon to attach plastic craft gems to my 'BlingBird' and it works great on the flat surfaces.
http://www.dickblick.com/products/elmer ... hool-glue/
I have no idea what it's long-term yellowing may be like, if any. I need to toss together a 'beater' model that has a canopy and use this stuff on it. I am already using it this afternoon to attach plastic craft gems to my 'BlingBird' and it works great on the flat surfaces.
________
Joe Brown
Joe Brown
I've drilled out my windows on my Enterprise-D.
And I've purchased Envirotex Lite as my clear resin.
If I understand what's been posted here, it sounds like my next step is to cut rectangles of cellophane tape them in place from the outside.
Then fill in with the clear resin from the inside.
Or should I tape from the inside and fill in from the outside?
Any help would be appreciated.
-Tchail
And I've purchased Envirotex Lite as my clear resin.
If I understand what's been posted here, it sounds like my next step is to cut rectangles of cellophane tape them in place from the outside.
Then fill in with the clear resin from the inside.
Or should I tape from the inside and fill in from the outside?
Any help would be appreciated.
-Tchail
“In the beginning the universe was created. This made a lot of people angry, and has generally been regarded as a bad move." Episode 5, The Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy
This is all very helpful for those wishing to simply fill a void with clear gunk, but what about how to make a canopy? I need, at the very least, windshields (ala WWI aircraft) for this - I'd like a full canopy, but have no ideas other than to try to use a plastic water bottle ... or perhaps a plastic wine glass, as from iParty ... hmmmmmm
Anyway - anyone have any thoughts?
Anyway - anyone have any thoughts?
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Dimitry
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Carve one out of balsa or a cured chunk of Bondo, then vacuform over it. If you have never tried this before, you will be amazed at how easy it is. For big windshields like this you can use a piece of a two liter bottle. If the first pull doesn't look good enough, just keep trying, the plastic is free.
I speak of the pompatous of plastic.
Its possible there's mention of this earlier in this thread, but there's also Squadron Thermoform. The process is called "heat & smash". Like the vacform method, you'll need a male blank in order to pull the main part of the canopy. But you won't need a vacformer. The process looks crude, but the results are not. You will need to practice a couple of times before you get a pull that you'll like. If you're lucky, one or more of the rejects can be used as a framing layer. That is, you mark out where you'd like there to be framing, and cut the rest away, and apply this now flimsy piece on top of your canopy.
Heat & Smash is ideal for simple shapes. You don't even need to buy Thermoform from Squadron. I've made a small canopy from clear PETE from the lid of a strawberry container. The master was a craft bead. Binder clips held the plastic while a candle heated it. For larger parts you'll need a better way to hold the plastic.
Other modelers get their PETE from water or soft drink bottles. Many blister packs are made from PETE or PS. If you get your plastic from the trash your mistakes are free. I made a bunch of mistakes to get a couple of canopies I was happy with. Someday they'll become debris in a diorama.
If you buy your plastic it will probably require less sanding and polishing.
Mike
Other modelers get their PETE from water or soft drink bottles. Many blister packs are made from PETE or PS. If you get your plastic from the trash your mistakes are free. I made a bunch of mistakes to get a couple of canopies I was happy with. Someday they'll become debris in a diorama.
If you buy your plastic it will probably require less sanding and polishing.
Mike
Will Future work for making windows? I'm just curious because I've got a huge thing of it and it does wonders for canopies and other clear parts. I was just thinking applying tape to the back of the part, filling it with future and then let it dry.
Rob "Talon" Holts
Acreation Models
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Fill from the inside.Tchail wrote:I've drilled out my windows on my Enterprise-D.
And I've purchased Envirotex Lite as my clear resin.
If I understand what's been posted here, it sounds like my next step is to cut rectangles of cellophane tape them in place from the outside.
Then fill in with the clear resin from the inside.
Or should I tape from the inside and fill in from the outside?
Any help would be appreciated.
-Tchail
http://www.flickr.com/photos/30727025@N ... 577581472/
Let me know how you go
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