Painting Camouflaged Mechas

This is the place to get answers about painting, weathering and other aspects of finishing a model.

Moderators: DasPhule, Moderators

Post Reply
DapperDave
Posts: 35
Joined: Thu Jun 02, 2005 10:20 am
Location: Delaware

Painting Camouflaged Mechas

Post by DapperDave »

I'm relatively new at building mechas, but am fairly familiar with model aircraft (built quiet a few years ago) and I’m trying to figure out the best way to use camouflage schemes on these gundams…My basic goal is to avoid the red/blue/white/yellow color scheme as much as possible. Anyway, I digress…I’ve hit a few conceptual roadblocks as it where and can’t decide how to proceed:
First: Brush or Airbrush? I have a cheapo testors single action that I used on my aircraft to achive satisfactory camo patterns…but I’m not sure if it will offer the control to handle the more intricately detailed mecha. I could get a new one (maybe a badger? 350 or crescendo?) while a brush would offer finer control – but leave more defined borders between colors – not always desirable in camo patterns.
Second: Sub-assemblies? For those not familiar, gundams are essentially two-layered: an inner “mechanicalâ€￾ layer that I would just paint a solid color, then an outer armor layer – here’s what I’m interested in camouflaging. So what order should I do this? Paint everything a base color first, then remove the (unglued) armor plates and camo that?
Third (and final): Can camo work with highlighting / other toning techniques? I’ve been reading about how to give flat panels more depth and really love the idea, but can this work with a camouflage or is it to complicated? Perhaps I should use a two-tone primer base for low/high-lights?
I would appreciate any help as I am just now getting back into modeling and am willing to spend large amounts of time on any method- I just want to make these things look great. I realize there's alot here, but i've been doing a lot of reading (on these forums and others) and can't find any advice for using camo on mecha. Thanks in advance.
~Dave
User avatar
rallymodeller
Posts: 3776
Joined: Mon Mar 17, 2003 8:06 pm
Location: Cornering at over 1g

Post by rallymodeller »

I have found the best way is to assemble the kit first, and where possible break it up into sub-assemblies; i.e. feet, lower legs, upper legs, torso and so forth and paint like that. Depending on the mecha and manufacturer of the kit, this should yield the best results. Also note where the mechanical stuff is on the outside of the armor and note to detail paint that last.
--Jeremy

"I'm not a geek, I'm a specialist." -- Sgt. Sousuke Sagara, Full Metal Panic
User avatar
TER-OR
Site Admin
Posts: 10531
Joined: Thu Jul 11, 2002 7:05 pm
Location: Conjugate imprecision of time negates absolute determination of location.
Contact:

Post by TER-OR »

For vehicles of this scale, I usually tell people to free-hand the camouflage with an airbrush. You can do it with a single-action, there's no reason not to.

Some paint gradation to imitate scale is nice, though. Rather than solid blocks of color take the geometry in mind and apply lighter colors on upper surfaces etc.

The Badger 360 is a nice brush. It's the Anthem with a swivel head. I've used one and it's probably the best all-around workhorse double action out there.

The Iwata Eclipse has a broader range of performance, you can likely do finer work with it. But do get some Badger 350 color cups to use with it, they're more convenient.


This sounds like a great learning project.
Raised by wolves, tamed by nuns, padded for your protection.

Terry Miesle
Never trust anyone who says they don't have a hobby.
Quando Omni Flunkus Moratati
User avatar
Kylwell
Moderator
Posts: 29643
Joined: Sun Nov 02, 2003 9:25 pm
Location: Lakewood, CO
Contact:

Post by Kylwell »

Ah camo mechs...a subject near & dear to my heart.

First, an airbrush will give you better results than brush painting. Now I know there are some master brush painters out there but (in my book) mastering hte smooth brush finish is far more difficult than mastering an airbrush. Then finer the tip on the airbrush the finer camo you'll be able to paint.

Which reminds me, I keep wanting to do a mech in the Luftwaffe worm scheme someday.

Back to airbrushes. You may find the Cresendo too fine, not offering enough coverage. I'm a big fan of the Iwata Eciplse with the finer tip, or the Badger 360.

Second: Sub-assemblies are the cats meow when doing an intricate camo job but not all models are built to accomidate that. As for the PG & MG Gundams, I usually paint the frame in metalic gray, the inner surfaces of the armor a matte dark gray and then the surface with what'er camo your looking for. This doesn mean you're goignto have to mask off the inner areas at times.

Third: Yes, most definately. Admittedly it's not easy, but pre-shaing & other toneing techniques can be done.
Abolish Alliteration
DapperDave
Posts: 35
Joined: Thu Jun 02, 2005 10:20 am
Location: Delaware

Post by DapperDave »

Thanks guys, I plan on starting the painting process this weekend. I've got a no-grade sword impulse gundam to practice on as well as an HG 1/144 red frame astray. I had the luck of finding a double action tester's airbrush in the basement so i'll try using that (going to pick up an extra needle or two at the local hobby shop). Thanks for your help, I also found these two artist's sites to be extremly helpful:
http://www.fichtenfoo.com/index.html
http://mechaworks.qsurf.org/
Thanks again.
~Dave
User avatar
rallymodeller
Posts: 3776
Joined: Mon Mar 17, 2003 8:06 pm
Location: Cornering at over 1g

Post by rallymodeller »

Funny that. "fichtenfoo" is an occasional poster here, and an idol of mine (along with Kylwell and Das Phule) when it comes to Mobile Suits.
--Jeremy

"I'm not a geek, I'm a specialist." -- Sgt. Sousuke Sagara, Full Metal Panic
Post Reply