i pulled a stupid move ( i think) anyway i had to SPRAY paint an area on a vinal model and i found this "plastic enamel" the can says it for kitchens and bath marine and outdoor. so ya i went ahead a taped off the area and starting spraying, its been like 5 hours since i finished spraying and its still sticky. can someone tell me if this is normal? will it ever dry? how long? whats up with this?? oh and just to let u all know so u dont think im stupid, this is my first model.
anyway thanks alont in advance
jason
whats wrong? (the enamel paint won't dry)
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- Professor Bobo
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It looks like that paint is no good on vinyl. I'd strip the paint off - oven cleaner should do it, but wear rubber gloves with that stuff. It won't hurt the plastic. I think acrylics should do the job, and if you want to use spray cans, Tamiya makes a spray acrylic. I understand it's good stuff.
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I found that giving your vinyl kits a coat of acrylic craft paint
(like the little bottles craft stores sell) You can then primer and
apint without this happening. I brush the stuff on and it acts like
a primer for other types of paint to stick. My paints have never
stayed tacky or come off after that. Just a though and a cheap fix
at that. That stuff is usually like 99 cents a bottle.
(like the little bottles craft stores sell) You can then primer and
apint without this happening. I brush the stuff on and it acts like
a primer for other types of paint to stick. My paints have never
stayed tacky or come off after that. Just a though and a cheap fix
at that. That stuff is usually like 99 cents a bottle.
Brian ----- Knightdriver ---- www.knightdriver.com
THOUGH I WALK THROUGH THE VALLEY OF RICE, I SHALL FEAR NO TURBO, FOR TORQUE AND HORSEPOWER ART WITH ME
1:1 scale Knight Rider Prop car, the ultimate model kit....
THOUGH I WALK THROUGH THE VALLEY OF RICE, I SHALL FEAR NO TURBO, FOR TORQUE AND HORSEPOWER ART WITH ME
1:1 scale Knight Rider Prop car, the ultimate model kit....
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Laquers and some types of enamels will have thi problem with vinyl. The vinyl used to make model kit is the same stuff that's used to make plumbing pipes, only with a lot ore plasticiser in the mix. The plasticiser makes the PVC plastic more rubbery & pliant, but it also interferes with the chemistry of laquer and enamel paints.
Never use laquer primers or base colors with vinyl kits. For details down the road perhaps, but not for heavy stuff or directly on the plastic.
*Some* kinds of enamels are OK, but you should test them on a piece of flash or pour stub from the kit in question before using them (different vinyl kit makers use different chemicals, so what works on one kit may not work on another). Generally though, if you've got a primer or base coat between the enamel and the vinyl, this issue dissapears. If you prime or basecoat using something that won't react with the vinyl, you don't have to worry about enamels.
Acrylics do not have issues with the vinyl's plasticiser. They can be used without restriction or worry.
It's generally good practice with vinyl to use acrylic primers for the reasons stated. Enamel primers may or may not be okay, depending on the formulation of the paint, and the formulation of the kit vinyl. If you're considering using an enamel-based primer, test it on a bit of cut off scrap to make sure its OK first.
It's nothing really to do with the fact that it's a spray can paint, outside of the simple fact that most hardware store type spraypaints are laquer or enamel based. Anything that's advertised as being specificly for plastic is usually to be doubly avoided with vinyl, as this usually means the paint in question is designed to solvent-fuse itself to the surface of the plastic. This works well for a lot of common plastics, but on vinyl it only exacerbates the unfavorable type of reaction. Unless it specificly says on the can that it's for or compatable with vinyls, stay away from hardware store paints that advertise as being specificly for plastic.
Chevy- Don't be scared off by this. It's just a behavioral difference between model building materials. Styrene, resin, white metal, wood, etc all have their own exclusive quirks, so don't feel like you got a crappy or difficult kit. What kit is it, BTW?
Oh, and welcome to the boards!
Never use laquer primers or base colors with vinyl kits. For details down the road perhaps, but not for heavy stuff or directly on the plastic.
*Some* kinds of enamels are OK, but you should test them on a piece of flash or pour stub from the kit in question before using them (different vinyl kit makers use different chemicals, so what works on one kit may not work on another). Generally though, if you've got a primer or base coat between the enamel and the vinyl, this issue dissapears. If you prime or basecoat using something that won't react with the vinyl, you don't have to worry about enamels.
Acrylics do not have issues with the vinyl's plasticiser. They can be used without restriction or worry.
It's generally good practice with vinyl to use acrylic primers for the reasons stated. Enamel primers may or may not be okay, depending on the formulation of the paint, and the formulation of the kit vinyl. If you're considering using an enamel-based primer, test it on a bit of cut off scrap to make sure its OK first.
It's nothing really to do with the fact that it's a spray can paint, outside of the simple fact that most hardware store type spraypaints are laquer or enamel based. Anything that's advertised as being specificly for plastic is usually to be doubly avoided with vinyl, as this usually means the paint in question is designed to solvent-fuse itself to the surface of the plastic. This works well for a lot of common plastics, but on vinyl it only exacerbates the unfavorable type of reaction. Unless it specificly says on the can that it's for or compatable with vinyls, stay away from hardware store paints that advertise as being specificly for plastic.
Chevy- Don't be scared off by this. It's just a behavioral difference between model building materials. Styrene, resin, white metal, wood, etc all have their own exclusive quirks, so don't feel like you got a crappy or difficult kit. What kit is it, BTW?
Oh, and welcome to the boards!
"Chaos is found in greatest abundance wherever order is being sought. It always defeats order, because it is better organized."
-Ly Tin Wheedle
-Ly Tin Wheedle
In any case, Enamel can take 6 hours or more to dry. PLUS, isf the waether is particularly hot and humid, this can significantly extend drying times.
These are all things that you learn with experience.
It's NOT you, it's the materials
I know it's said that 'a bad worman blames his tools' but if the tools are to blame, then the workman is right to blame them
These are all things that you learn with experience.
It's NOT you, it's the materials
I know it's said that 'a bad worman blames his tools' but if the tools are to blame, then the workman is right to blame them
Scale Modellers do it with precision
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