Paint layering for lighting?

This is the place to get answers about painting, weathering and other aspects of finishing a model.

Moderators: DasPhule, Moderators

Post Reply
nanook177
Posts: 174
Joined: Sat Sep 02, 2006 12:52 pm

Paint layering for lighting?

Post by nanook177 »

Years ago I read and article that said the best way to paint a model, if you intend to light it, is to use the following layers to block light from escaping and color the outside (I'll hopefully be able to simulate and sum up what was said):

Outside of model
Outer paint layer
Coat of flat black
Coat of primer
The model itself (plastic)
Coat of primer
Coat of gloss black
Coat of silver or chrome
Inside of model

Is this technique still valid or will I be wasting a lot of paint? Also, if this is wrong, what are the best layers what lighting a kit? Thanks!
User avatar
Johnnycrash
Posts: 5563
Joined: Fri Jul 12, 2002 12:57 pm
Location: Timmins, Ontario, Canada

Post by Johnnycrash »

You can save a lot of time and masking if you use aluminum muffler tape for the inside. It's opaque, and gives you the reflective interior to max the light. It comes in many sizes, and is self-adhesive.

Muffler Tape
John Fleming
I know that's not what the instructions say, but the kit's wrong anyway.
User avatar
karim
Posts: 4255
Joined: Fri Jul 12, 2002 4:51 pm
Location: NC
Contact:

Post by karim »

Another alternative is aluminum duct-sealing tape (http://m.homedepot.com/p/Intertape-Poly ... /206313672) (not the same as duct tape—it's basically adhesive aluminum foil).
User avatar
Kylwell
Moderator
Posts: 29643
Joined: Sun Nov 02, 2003 9:25 pm
Location: Lakewood, CO
Contact:

Post by Kylwell »

And it's been heavily discussed that while metal flake paints like silver are better light blockers, white is preferred for more even light.

You can also use aluminum duct tape to seal light leaks.
Abolish Alliteration
User avatar
Bellerophon
Posts: 2543
Joined: Fri Oct 16, 2009 10:00 pm
Location: 13 miles southwest of Grovers Mill
Contact:

Post by Bellerophon »

For lighting clear models like the 1701D repop, that first layer of black on both the inside and outside would help reduce the amount of light traveling sideways through the plastic and coming out the wrong place, like nav deflector light coming out the windows.
But isn't it all Klingon opera?

http://bellerophon-modeler.blogspot.com/
User avatar
Disillusionist
Posts: 1134
Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2003 10:11 pm
Location: Closer than you think

Post by Disillusionist »

I know a lot of people do it without issue, but lining the inside of a model with aluminum tape makes me a little nervous. Since it's conductive, you have to be very careful not to leave any exposed connections, otherwise you'll short out your lighting.
Affordable laser cutting and engraving for the hobby community

www.laserfirecreations.com While you're at it, follow us on Facebook
User avatar
Kylwell
Moderator
Posts: 29643
Joined: Sun Nov 02, 2003 9:25 pm
Location: Lakewood, CO
Contact:

Post by Kylwell »

That's why I usually just use strips on the outside of the light box.

Which brings up light boxes, enclosures for directing light to a set of windows or exits.
Abolish Alliteration
User avatar
NCC1966
Posts: 133
Joined: Mon Jun 27, 2016 2:56 pm

Post by NCC1966 »

Don't need to over-complicate things...

You just need to paint it inside with matte black to block the light. Then just paint your model as you would do normally.

:)

PS: I don't use primer. Just paint directly. My paints are enamel.
CaptBillD
Posts: 873
Joined: Thu May 29, 2008 6:04 pm
Location: Indianapolis

Post by CaptBillD »

Flat black will block light from passing through the plastic and provide a base for silver metallic paint, but if any diffused light is meant to be seen from inside the model, flat white is better than a metallic, though silver will make a better base coat for white than the flat black.
What are we running here, Number One- a cadet ship?
Post Reply