Help with Enamel washes.

[Dennis S.]

I have been trying to do my first panel wash on my Gundam with enamels and have accidently stripped off the paint. I am using Tamiya lacquer sprays for color and Testors laquer clear gloss spray. I used Testors Model Master Aircraft Interior Black enamel for the panel line. The thinner I used was from Testors. When I used Testors enamel thinner on it the lacquer paint completely dissolved. I have been given ideas from others on what to use and want anyone who has experience to help me out please. I have never attempted panel washes before.

1. I was told by someone to use Gunze Sangyo Mr. Super Clear topcoat over the Tamiya paint and then use both Humbrol black enamel and their enamel thinner. Does anyone know where to get these in the U.S.? Also, do these work OK.

2. Going onto someone's internet blog I've found he used acrylic topcoats. He then followed this with Model Master enamel paints for the panel wash and something called "Artist's White Spirit". Can this be used over Tamiya lacquers without stripping it? I cannot find the "white spirit" stuff anywhere. The website is from England and I think this may be artist's mineral spirits here in the U.S. Anyone know if I'm right?

3. Any other ideas that work please let me know.

Thanks

[Kylwell]

Just thin the Tamiya with Tamiya acrylic (not lacquer) thinner.

Anything that'll thin the enamel will also attack the underlying paint.

[Dennis S.]

I'm actually using spray paint on this as I don't on an airbrush. I need a spray paint topcoat that will protect the paint. I'll keep that in mind if I ever get an airbrush. Thanks for the advise though.

[Kylwell]

Only thing that might is a polyurethane finish.

And I say maybe. IIRC even cured acrylic (i.e. Future) is susceptible.

Which is why oil & pastel washes are so poplar.

[Dennis S.]

How about Testors acrylics? Would you have any idea if they would be OK? I can get the Mr. Hobby, but I'd have to mail order it and I want to get this done so I can decal the model ASAP.

[Dennis S.]

I was thinking about gaming paints like Vellajo. Anyone know if this would work?

[Dennis S.]

Would Vallejo gaming paints work?

[Kylwell]

uhm...what?

[Ace Airspeed]

If you are going to apply a wash over enamel:

-Gloss coat it with Future and apply an oil wash with an odorless turpenoid thinner. Allow it to dry for DAYS. Looks great if properly done.

-Gloss coat it with Future and apply an acrylic wash thinned with acohol and a drop or two of dish washing detergent to help break surface adhesion. Dries within hours, but might not filter and finish like oils.

[TimeScape]

I've had good success with using artist oils thinned with turpentine or mineral spirits. The oils will cost about $5 to $10 per tube but will last you a long time and can be picked up at a well supplied craft store. The turpentine can be picked up at any hardware store. Prior to applying the wash you need to prep the model with several clear coat of acrylic paint and leave set for a few days. Of course the turpentine will eat into the clear coat but that is why I use several coats. After about half hour, wipe away the wash with paper towel dampened with turpentine in the direction of motion. Wipe down sooner if you want a light effect or repeat for a heavier effect. Also, if you use a flat clear the paint left behind after wiping will adhere to the flat panels of the model as well as the crevasses while with a gloss clear will generally give a cleaner look while highlighting the crevasses.

Also, never use a lacquer thinner of any sort, that will end in disaster very quickly.