Model Primer or any old primer?

Matt1982 · Post by **Matt1982** » Sat Dec 11, 2010 9:12 am

Hi guys,

I am trying to do things right. Do I have to buy specially made Testors primer or can I buy any old primer at Walmart? My next model will be a Viper Mk2 and I want the surface to shine like a car.

Thanks!

Matt

Joseph C. Brown · Post by **Joseph C. Brown** » Sat Dec 11, 2010 9:24 am

There is no easy 'sure-fire' answer for that.

One huge point: surface preparation of the model. Translation: wash that spaceship! Mold-release, even for styrene kits, and your own skin oil/fingers will detract from a showroom finish. So, clean before applying the primer coat!

After that, well, a number of folks on these boards swear by using cheapo WalMart primer, and win awards at model shows with their models.

Other folk on these same boards only use specialized (somewhat pricey) primer paint, and they also win awards at model shows with their models.

If you have the time and money, try both methods and then decide.

Post by **TER-OR** » Mon Dec 13, 2010 10:12 am

For styrene kits with no large amounts of resin or photoetch, I don't prime. The paints made for plastic do fine, and you won't lose your details. Unless I want to paint a dark-styrene model with light colors I don't bother priming.

Wash the kit. A clean sink with mild dish soap is fine. Hard water might leave spots, so be prepared for that. The next step can help:

I really like PolyScale's Plastic Prep. I apply before painting. It removes residual oils and maybe more importantly, eliminates static electric charge which can make your paint grainy.

Beyond that, properly thinning your paint makes a big difference. I'll also occainally buff the paint if I think it's not quite right. I use sponge buffing pads for this - wet buff and make sure you clean very well after. Then use the PolyScale prep before your next coat.

When I do prime - for a resin kit or if I had to make a lot of corrections with epoxy putty and photoetch etc, I do pay the extra and use Gunze Sangyo's Mr. Surfacer 1000 or 1200. It's hard to find, so I buy it when I can. Again, that static will kill you, so prepare your kit.

What kills my paint jobs is dust. I've got to find a way to help eliminate that. I'll spray the air with a water bottle to knock dust down, and do cover the model after I paint. I also need to find a better area, I think.

Wug · Post by **Wug** » Tue Dec 14, 2010 4:31 am

Hi Matt1982,

Here's a relevant thread from the summer.

http://www.starshipmodeler.net/talk/vie ... a08404e191

brt · Post by **brt** » Tue Dec 28, 2010 10:57 am

How big a difference is there between mr. surfacer 1000 and 1200?

Ziz · Post by **Ziz** » Tue Dec 28, 2010 11:45 am

200.

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Tue Dec 28, 2010 12:09 pm

smartass.... that was going to be my answer.

brt · Post by **brt** » Tue Dec 28, 2010 2:29 pm

also several dollars in price....

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Tue Dec 28, 2010 2:40 pm

Not mine, 500-1200 are $5.98.

brt · Post by **brt** » Tue Dec 28, 2010 5:21 pm

So which is finer?

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Tue Dec 28, 2010 5:32 pm

1200 is the finest. Best used for a final coat. 1000 is for finding and filling small scratches & what. 500 is for coarser work.

brt · Post by **brt** » Tue Dec 28, 2010 8:03 pm

Thanks!

nicholassagan · Post by **nicholassagan** » Fri Jan 07, 2011 9:20 am

so what would be good to preserve these details? there are the heavier .01mm lines and then finer lines, which are about half that. this project needs primer to seal it up for casting, but preservation of these fine details is essential. i don't anticipate having to sand anything after priming...so would mr surfacer 1000 or 1200 be better?

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Fri Jan 07, 2011 12:10 pm

1200.

The wonderful thing about lacquer based primers is that they shrink when curing, preserving many ultra-fine details.

nicholassagan · Post by **nicholassagan** » Fri Jan 07, 2011 12:37 pm

awesome! thanks.