Painting/detailing using water colors?

jpolacchi · Post by **jpolacchi** » Thu Aug 20, 2015 5:40 pm

I know this seems like a weird topic and some of you may be scratching your heads thinking I'm dumb or something, but I'm curious to know if anyone out there has tried using "water colors" as a means to paint and/or "weather" a model?

I recall quite a while ago an article in FSM of someone who was using water colors to paint and/or detail "figure kits". I'm thinking of doing so myself for some kits for a few different reason. One of which is to "paint in scale", the other is for weathering (doing water thin washes) and lastly, being that it is water color can be thinned so aggressively in most cases, the air brush can be run at an extremely low psi,(like below 10psi) without excessive overspray.

My only question is...what should it be "sealed" with to prevent the water color from flaking off or cracking? The only real issue I can see is that it is being painted on a "non porous surface". So should it be lightly shot over with a light misting of a "workable fixative" and then clear coated with a lacquer, or something else?

I also intend to be going over with allot of pastel work too in place of painting panels for similar reasons. Mainly "detailing/painting "in scale". Just stretching my feelers out there to see what others out there think about this?

Wug · Post by **Wug** » Thu Aug 20, 2015 10:08 pm

Years ago some figure modelers gave a demo on using water colors for details at Wonderfest. They used artist quality water colors. They used water colors because it allowed them to easily redo mistakes. If they didn't like the way something turned out they could wipe off the water color. Once they liked the results they sprayed Testors Dull Coat to seal it.

I've used cheap children's water colors for washes on metallic parts. Brush it on. Let it dry a bit. Wipe it down. If you don't like it wipe it all off and try again. I didn't seal since the parts wouldn't be touched.

I've also used cheap children's water colors for shadows on a 1/72 scale pilot. I kept wiping away my mistakes until I got something I liked.

Airbrushing water colors on models might be a problem. Experiment on scrap. You might need to mix them with a clear acrylic or airbrush medium.

Mike

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Thu Aug 20, 2015 10:23 pm

Water colors, in various forms, have been used off and on again with the most recent being WWII white washed vehicles using gouache. I've seen some nifty tricks on the MIG forums using transparent watercolors to layer weathering.

jpolacchi · Post by **jpolacchi** » Fri Aug 21, 2015 9:05 pm

Yeah,that's what I seem to recall.I know I have the FSM issue article discussing the use of water colors, I just can't find the issue or recal the specifics of it at this time. I guess they are very much like "pastels" because if you don't like the look or make a mistake you can wipe/wash it off and start over. I just wans't sure if aditives were used or what was used to "seal it" after you got what the results you wanted? I don't know how water colors behave on "flat primer" or underlying solid coats,but maybe it isn't a big problem?There are some water colors at the art store I'm intersted in seeing what results I might get from them? They are "new" and VERY EXPENSIVE,but aperently compared to other "standard watercolors "don't fade" as many others do,and have a high "light fastness" to them and very vibrant color and both good colry coverage and "transparency with certain colors.

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Fri Aug 21, 2015 11:15 pm

Well there are a few things to keep in mind. First is pigment size. The better the water color, typically also pricier, the finer the pigment has been ground. Finer grind mean smoother transitions and less clumping. It also means less bit into the underlying surface as you clean off residue. With a coarse grind, like you'd get using a sludge wash with pastels you can take a gloss coat down to matte when cleaning off the excess. With higher end watercolor paints this effect is lessened.

Keep in mind when buying them that you are using very little @ a time.

As far as fixing goes you can use just about anything as in the end all you have is pigment. They dry much faster than oils but have little to no binders to affix them to the surface.

eeun · Post by **eeun** » Sat Aug 22, 2015 11:28 am

Watercolours with just a tiny amount of dish soap in the mixing water to break surface tension and keep the colours from beading up as they dry. Works very well for panel lining.

jpolacchi · Post by **jpolacchi** » Sat Aug 22, 2015 4:48 pm

Well, that's what I was considering was the use of "high end" water colors. I mean, these are pro" water colors, costing around $15-$20 per tube. I didn't see a reason to use the cheap ones. Especially since I was going to attempt to use them for "actual" painting and not necessarily a wash, although I'd use them for that purpose too. "Adhesion" was one of the issues I was concerned about, so I'd have to see what happens there and the only other thing I wasn't sure of was what to 'seal" them with. I thought a lacquer coats would be too harsh over a water color and that the solvents would just "eat it up" ort something(do something awful, like make the color run or something? I use a fixative over my water color illustrations to "seal and preserve" them, but that's on water color paper, not a non porous surface like styrene or urethane resin.

Kylwell · Post by **Kylwell** » Sat Aug 22, 2015 10:26 pm

You'd have to read up on what each manufacturer uses. Some water colors have acrylic binders others are just pigment. Experiment or find a MSDS sheet on the paint.

Or try to find a copy of "The Artist's Handbook of Materials and Techniques"

Lt. Z0mBe · Post by **Lt. Z0mBe** » Sat Aug 22, 2015 11:49 pm

I use Payne's Gray watercolor from Winsor & Newton sometimes, sure. It works like a charm. I mix it up to the desired darkness and then add a few drops of Liquitex Flow-Aid. It works like a charm for those times when maybe I can't use an oil or pastel wash for whatever reason.

I hope this helps.

Kenny

Post by **TER-OR** » Tue Aug 25, 2015 9:22 am

I use transparent watercolors for weathering panel lines just like many use the fine oils. Dilute in 50% water, 25% Flo-Aid, 25% Slo-Dri for maximum workability. This might be overkill.

When doing panel lines of course use over highly glossed surface. Residual can be removed with barely dampened cotton swabs.

This can also be used for a glaze wash - but for a true glaze wash I prefer India Inks in Future. It settles into recesses like nothing else.

Seal watercolors with topcoats, Future works well. The Future glaze doesn't need topcoating, of course.