Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

Ok, I thought maybe it was a semi gloss finnish.

Kylwell wrote:Ah-yup. Acrylic to acrylic is perfectly fine if all is cured.

And if you're airbrushing go find some Pledge with Future shine.

What would the Pledge with Future shine do to his fnnish?

It will remove acrylic paint that you get from a craft store completly but as for MM paints not so much your best bet may be to soakit in some simple green for about a week or 2, the longer you soak it the better chance you have of getting the paint off completly. Simple green is best for clear piec...

Or he could paint it black from the inside. I think the canopy in question is cast in opaque resin :P The original version of the Monogram Viper presents the same problem; I painted the windows glossy black and then airbrushed some very dark gray around the borders. The gray breaks up the "all...

Or he could paint it black from the inside.

Lukehu these people may not know what a Fred Meyer is.

Even if you could find a way to bend it you may also have to deal with toxic fumes. I do know that fiber carbon does come in tubes but I don't know about rods. Plus can be expensive.

Considering the red stripes on that kit are some what long and probably difficult to manage I would suggest using tape for the border on the stripes and apply red paint in place of the decals.

Depends on what type of paint you want to remove and what type of plastic.

If you're going to airbrush on any clear coat from a 1/5 ounce jar you'll need at least 5 jars.

The only problem I can think of with turning the bottles upside down is when you go to use the paint again you may have a problem getting the lid to open and for that just soak the jar upside down in some rubbing alchohol for a few hours.

A primer is also able to stick to almost any surface and vice virsa.

I've tried every "chrome" paint that comes in a retail spray can (from discount stores and auto parts shops), both silver and gold, and every one has always just looked like regular silver or gold paint, despite the shiny, mirrored cap they come topped with. The best effect I've ever seen...

Why not combine the Blue Tube glue with a super glue? You know mix the 2 together.

A few years ago I lived down the road from an Ace hardware store and what did I find? 1500 grit sandpaper!! So in other words check out your local hardware store.

Individual sub assembnlie or before glueing pieces together would be best as well as after putting and sanding paint said sub assemblies in so the putty will not 'chip, flake or come undone'.

Not if it's going to melt or burn the plastic.

Is the paint acrilic or what and is the plastic clear or opaque?

Maybe it's just a matter of experimenting with the right amount of thinner.

Kai112086 wrote:Do you mean the lights on top that are supposed to blink red and green?

Yes.

Something eles I remembered this weekend is the running/formation lights on the rim of the saucer top are in the wrong position. They need to be moved to where the engraved ring meets the engraved lines coming from the just below the b/c deck housing.

Are you putting any putty in the panel grooves?

Heck, why not use some thing like 60 grade? It'll go a bit faster and when you get the extra scribed lines off that Ertl put there then switch to a larger numbered grade sand paper like 420 or larger, believe me it goes a lot faster and is much easier to get done.

What grade sand paper are you using?

Just so you know the saucer bottom has incorrect landing pad detailing, the shoud be a bit longer and the are also a bit too wide.
there are also only 3 when there should be 4 and at least 1 of them is in the wrong position, it needs to go out towartd the rim by 1 'ring'.

Have you tried emailing Testors and asking them where and if you can get the MM acrylics over in the UK?

Heck, just give it a try on some scrap plastic and you should have your answer.

If you make a mistake using them the longer you wait to clean up the boo boo the harder they are to get off the plastic.

If I remember the basetsar kit has cross beams around the rim of the saucer and if there depending on the gap between the beams on the top and bottom you should be able to some how clamp the saucer pieces together, and if you do it right the saucer pieces should hold after you glue them together.

Got any photos? And is it an original series base star?