Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

Start laying on the primer real thick like...

Why do people even buy WARP kits? All I've heard is bad things about their products. I realize that some of their kits are exclusive and you can't get them anywhere else, but why bother when you know it's going to be a hassle?

ooOOOooo... is it easily convertable into a master for casting?

PM JTGraphics or JBOT, both on this board. I recommend both of them. Do you have the artwork, or do you need that drawn up as well?

Ebay has Mattel vac-u-forming machines once in a while. Used to be a kid's toy, so anyone can use it. For clear canopies, I've heard empty 2 liter pop bottles work great.

Here's what I do, works almost every time:

Warm the can up. I have a small hot plate on my bench I keep warm water in. I warm up the can, and then spray in light, even coats. Works both for the 50 cent Wal-Mart primer to the 7 dollar Tamiys cans.

Electrical tubing from Lowe's or Home Despot. It's usually PVC, but it bonds with super glue or 5 minute epoxy. Comes on 1/2", and up.

Also, there's some really cheap tubing used for sink drains. I've seen some 1", but 99% of it is 1 1/4" or 1 1/2".

Hope this helps.

I use mine at 35-40 psi for smaller parts, and it works just fine.

All I know is that it works. I don't care how.

Would a really thin piece of strip styrene work for this?

I used to do that to hide seams I didn't want to fill. Makes them look like panel lines.

You could always use fire...

Well, I'll ask it. I don't know if it'll be open minded enough to try someone else, but with a little wine, some soft music, let's see where the night takes us, okay?

I gots one. It's an HP 12a.

So you're telling me that this will work to de-gass RTV rubber???

I can get 1/2" plexi ( 16" x 16", to go on top of this) for $30 at a local plastic store. HHHMMM....

The real trick is to find a scrap piece of PLexi or lexan. The holy grail around here, there's absolutely NO waste scrap, everything is used.

And I thought you had to get at least a 5cfm to attain the 29.92" of mercury to degas?

warrensgc wrote: Pressure casting pot
http://www.artmolds.com/product_details ... ccessories

This is the lowest prices I have found on the pot.

TA- DAAA!!!!

Here's some pics of the stuff I have. 1 2 3 16 oz. boxes, and they have like 6 different colors. I got tan. They have red, yellow, blue, green, tan, white, and I think brown. The name of the store was Holcomb's The Know Place . It's like an elemetary school teacher's supply store. Anyone needs this ...

I bought a TON of clean clay at (get this) a school supply store at me local mall. It was like $1.99 for a pound pkg. If you want some, PM me, I'll pick some up for you. Comes in like 5 different colors too.

I use rubber bands for round shapes. For really small round pieces (like 1:72 missiles) I use the tiny rubber bands they use for braces for teeth. Also, I just bought some long tweezers, heated them up with a lighter, and bent them into the shape I need for small clamps like the missiles stated above.

A picture of the master part would help! PM me as well.

Not good enough for degassing silicone rubber (RTV). You need at least 29.92" to start degassing RTV.

Kylwell wrote:
14.5oz for $7.49.

Oomoo 30, $22.41 for 2.8lbs.

I'll let somebody else do the math.

...carry the 2, add 7...

Geez, I just buy kitchen cutting boards at the dollar store. Once they get beat up enough, I just buy another for a dollar. Been through 3 in the last 10 years...

Sorry about the ebay link, but this is what I'm using when I'm molding parts. If you want, I could act as mediary and have them ship it here, and then I'd forward it to you. PM me if interested.

SCC-7107 USS Atlantis wrote: I've done both with the Castin' Craft product; it probably doesn't hurt the casting to do both with the Smooth-On either

I'm more worried about the molds...

So should you post bake the cast right in the molds(pour, clamp, wait, throw the whole thing in the oven) or pull the parts, then put them on a cookie sheet or sumpin, and then bake them by themselves?

The above posters mentioned doing multiple layers. How is this accomplished? My thought is that if you put resin in a mold, slush it, there will be a solid shell coming out of whatever you cast. Then how do you do a second coat on the inside without ruining the detailed exterior of the cast?

I ran across this item , and I'm wondering what this stuff is called (Scroll down to almost the bottom to just below the 1:1 mix RTV) It looks like play dough, and you knead it together, and in 5 minutes, you have an RTV silicone mold. I need to do a one part gang mold of 10 tiny pieces of resin, bu...

YES. ABSOLUTELY. Unless you use mold release. It acts as a barrier between the two halves. RTV only sticks to itself, so you don't have to put mold release on the master.