Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

While I like tanks with long barrels, Dave's conception of his tanks is a short barrelled thing like an M60A2 "Starship" or and M551 Sheridan. The theory being that the light-speed like bolt does not need a long barrel to provide guidence to the projectile. I tend to agree as that is how ...

Interesting shapes.. I cannot recall seeing lids/tops that interesting down here. They are probably out there.. so I must look harder

Sorry did not know it was a hiding show.
I thought the gig was to just not use AFV parts.

Who knew what it was it was just an interesting shape.
Do what I can to hide it.. but plenty to happen yet.

happy to pull it out if you think it is not right

Aww man that is ACE

Now I have to see it all together. Great work

Now that looks the business.

Be looking forward to getting some peeks as it gets further together

Finally.. I am underway. I tossed a bits back and forth and settled on this an old Lucasfilm action figure wreck I picked up at a garage sale.. because the shape looked cool :D Landspeeder thing For the turret.. an old mouse wobbly mockup Ok so getting on toward where I want to be.. not quite the mi...

Well that is different to what I expected.
Don't sweat the reasons if it looks cool

Pressure is now on to put up or shut up on my part.

parts rummaging starts......... now

For the record: yes , I do have a design I am working on (whenever PSR on this blasted Dragon destroyer kit makes me cross eyed). And no , you can't see it until I'm close to being done. Or at least in primer. what he said :D :D something that I want to do with this is at least have something well ...

That is honkin'

great work so far.

Over committed with other projects at the moment as well but hope to start shortly.

I have found a shape

Kylwell wrote:Some of my early works on

Great stuff there.. something for everyone

Oh come on Sean.. lets see a the tank from the ORIGINAL Battlezone.. the one made out of straightened coathangers from the Arcade game version http://www.classicarcadeonline.com/battlezone_2front.jpg http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/a/a6/Atari_BattleZone_Screenshot.png That design is wicked ...

in the words of a late TV Advertiser down here in Aussie, Big Kev,
"I'm excited!!!"

Yep I can do that..
Providing time frame is not important.

Is the only proviso not kit hull basis ?
So other bits from AFV kits can be used as greeblies and detail then.

Brian T

You can also use the hot water method, which is great for creating curves in sheet and rod. Find a form the right diameter and tape the plastic around it. Plunge into boiling water (giving due care and attention to the safety, burnies etc etc), leave for a few seconds, remove and plunge into cold wa...

Thanks Guys. This is a small 3.5 inch by Digitech Pat, this one does have USB power capability (as well as a wall wart, which used the same small USB type connection).. surprised me too, it chugs away nicely using the USB power options which made me wonder about the battery thing. It is 500mA so in ...

Ok guys.. I have another hare brained scheme. I have one of those dinky little 3.5 inch LED Photo frames. What I want to know is have any of you used the USB connectors connected to a battery ? USB is only 5 V, so that is ok and my research tells me that Pin 1 is the 5V+ and Pin 4 is ground.. no pro...

Well folks.. thanks to all of you.. I have lights

No more supernova's yet anyway.

Just to confirm I am using ordinary old, garden variety, cheap as chips LED's.

Man I was happy to see lights.

Although now I have been let loose...................

Thanks

Brian T

Thanks Clyde/Atlantis That about sorts it out on the resistor stuff... it was more of a sanity check for the way I understood stuff. Atlantis.. thanks again for checking this out and bearing with me.. I have never done any electronics before so I have been learning heaps. I do use the LED calc sites...

Uh ohh.. what do you mean wrong leg of the resistor ?? I was under the impression that they were not polarized ? I tried out a simple wire circuit with a what I thought was a 100 Ohm resistor (brown, black, black) and still got 5 + volts through to the LED end So what I intend to do today is back to...

See.. ask the question and you get the answers. That is why this community is so great.

Fantastic guys.. you have helped out this dummy beautifully

I will redo my practice circuit using your suggestions.

Thanks

Brian T

BTW that would perhaps exlain why one of my LED went Supernova

Ok folks, I have started to tinker with LED for the engines of my 1/72 Viper. I have a usefull book on this sort of thing but the author always uses a diode. I can understand why (with my simpleton electonics knowledge) to ensure you protect your components. But it seems to add unecessary complicati...

Dont discount those paper trimmers available at most office supplies stores. I have been using one of those for some time with excellent results.

Brian T

My fav at the moment for bases and stuff.... Tiling grout.
Fine as you can get and self adhesive to boot

How about flat black then go over with a soft lead pencil, say a 4B. You can then buff with a cotton bud (Q Tip for the US Folks). Gives a nice low sheen, plus gives a pretty metal looking finish. The question then is to seal or not to seal and lose the variation in sheen. But also consider using co...

Bits of all the above really. Although I must say I use an aerosol of generic primer from the $2 Shop quite a bit, as the finish almost as good as the model stuff and on armour kits it don't make that much difference in surface finish. I always prime to make the bits that need attention stick out by...

With a few "depends" you could try to use damp paper. No really, it works Damp paper will have enough surface tension to hold onto a model for a little time, this is really good using acrylics, but "may" work with enamels. It is best to do the mask, spray and get the mask off. Th...

Another method, albeit a little less enviromentally and health friendly, is to drop the model in a bath of Caustic Soda, leave for a day or 2, rinse off and then you should be able to gently start pulling apart the model. The other beneficial (or detrimental) side effect is that it will also take of...