Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

Score and snap......works great. A little clean up and you are ready.

Well, who ever set that up doesn't know what they are doing. Styrene cuts just fine (although acrylic is better). Either the laser is set to high, or the speed is too low. And for the perf look, it's probably the DPI that is set wrong as well (WAY too low). I laser cut styrene plastic all the time....

Thanks Kenny.....thought I was back in chemistry class! Good to know at any rate!

From what I understand Tamiya paints are a proprietary synthetic lacquer and not a organic traditional lacquer....the two do not always mix well.

There is a laser that prints white.....the complete set up was about $5000 last time I checked it. Then there is screen printing. Other than those options and white decal paper......that's about it.

The Christmas light LED's I use are 3.8 volts each. I cut them into groups of 3 and use a 12 volt wall transformer to power.

I got a box of 72 bright white LED lights today at Kroger for $3. They are 3.4 volt bulbs which with 3 or 4 running in series off a 12 volt transformer should work well. They had colors too that I might pick up later....but needed food today more than lights!!!

Plastruct makes it in a number of scales. You could sand it to get the rusty spots. You can also get real metal and use etching soulution to rust it....but this is BAD stuff if handled wrong so read up on it first. Also try the link below. They have lots of different roofs in many scales. I use thei...

A 60 watt machine will do about anything. Here is a kit, it's not Sci Fi, that I produced for a while for the model car hobby. It takes some testing to get everything set up right. My machine has 3 different setting with 255 power settings in each....so lots of testing needed. I cut and etch plastic...

Anything can work as a scriber......but that would not be my first pick. The BACK side of a #11 works OK but I got a dental tool/pick at the IMPS show that works very well. It was under $2 and should last until I lose it(like the last one I had!) Check that auction place...I am sure there are some t...

I have a compass with interchangeable points. You can put a point on both arms and scribe circles. I have access to a laser cutter that does mine....but a heavy investment just to cut circles!

At one time there was a clear and paint polish kit aimed at the model car market. The kit had 10 sheets of high grade 'sanding' films, a polish compound and soft cloth. The kits roughest grit was 800 and went to 15000. So I would pass on the 150 and 400....but if you have made deep scratches with th...

If it's a decal to be put on a white model....it's easy. Get some inkjet or laser paper from one of the many vendors that sell it, create the art and print. When you need a white decal for a dark surface is when things get difficult. The subject of decals start to finish is a little bit to big to co...

What are you working with?? Back in my fiber optic days there were some that were industrial use only and really should not be cut and handled.

Never understood why anybody would want to go buy a string of "white" christmas LEDs just to cut them up, and hopefully pull them apart sufficiently just to get their hands on 30 or so blue LEDs... 60 white LED's for $1 at close out last year seemed like a good deal. And the fact they wor...

The string of LED Christmas lights I bought were 4 volt lamps. Thus the lights were wired in a series so the total was 120 volts. When I cut them up I cut them up into group of 3 as I use old 12 volt wall mounted power supplies to power the LED's. The combination of wires 'controls' the voltage in a...

Been applying Future with a soft sable 3/4" brush since 1982. Use the brush for Future only and keep clean with hot soapy water. I apply from side to side keeping a wet edge. If you miss a spot wait until dry before touch up. Great stuff. IF you use it of Tamiya make sure the paint is gassed ou...

Sounds like its bad. More hardener will work most times. Clean it up and get another brand and test on cardboard first.

Another Dupli-color user here. I have produced resin kits in the past (automotive) and used it on all resin kits. I have used all types paint over it including Tamiya lacquer which is a lot 'hotter' than any enamel or acrylic on the market. They have a few different version...the light gray sandable...

The best foam I've used is Balsa Foam....but it is the most costly too. For smaller projects it is the best choice IMHO. Some art store carry it.
http://www.americanfoamtech.com/balsafo ... tideas.asp

I can do about anything I need to do with my 35 watt machine....a 60 will do it all. It does take some practice to use.

Been in the decal biz for many years. Walthers Solvaset is the strongest. It must be used with care but fresh Solvaset will work were other don't.