Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

However, I beleive I am going to need another round of therapy, so I am in for Part Deux! :D Count me in too. What the hell. Put me on Bill's team (Timescape), we are both Canuckians. BTW Bill, just got your email (got auto junked - oops!). Reply soonish. Been meaning to call. Was going to do it la...

I'm usually in for something like this, but I'd like some guarantee that it won't disappear like my last two entries. :( We had one guy last time, kill one completely. Burned it if I remember. It's an act of trust and faith in the team members. I was part of the "model killer" group. I wa...

I recently modified my home made booth from vertical to horizontal draw. One reason was what Kewell says; the other primary was the filter. I place a furnace filter over the opening to catch the excess paint particles; however, it also collects dust in the air as well. With the vertical draw, the fi...

Voltage regulator...

Check this article out.

http://www.egr.msu.edu/classes/ece480/c ... onNote.pdf

Haven't you heard, Black is the new White!!

Believe it or not, I prime with MM Sand followed by gloss or semi-gloss white. Usually works well.

Bellerophon wrote:With walnuts! And make sure it's real maple syrup, none of that log cabin or mrs butterworth stuff.

But once you've used up your Squadron putty, get some Bondo spot glazing putty or 3M Acryl Blue.

Any idea where to find 3M Acryl Blue?

Like Ter-or I use a number of techniques. Bondo spot & glaze, CA+, Aves, Liquid Paper, Mr. Surfacer and for really bad gaps, plastic strip doused in liquid cement. Of course the last one is usually on really badly fitted models requiring redoing of surface details.

You really do need the pieces of the chip. Just string the leads from LED to LED connecting the red lead to the yellow LED lead and black to black (using your colours). If you need a group of LEDs in one location/area you also tie all of the yellow LED leads together and then the black LED leads tog...

I have gotten good results with artist oil paint thinned with mineral spirits or turpentine. The key is to ensure that you have a good solid clear acrylic finish on the model that has had plenty of time to cure, at least two to three days. After applying the wash and wiping away, you want to leave i...

I've had good success with using artist oils thinned with turpentine or mineral spirits. The oils will cost about $5 to $10 per tube but will last you a long time and can be picked up at a well supplied craft store. The turpentine can be picked up at any hardware store. Prior to applying the wash yo...

Digger1 wrote:I axed the girl at Lowes ......

I hope nobody was looking, you could get in trouble for this sort of thing

Thanks, Kylwell. Trying something new as I do not usually use primer except for the main colour but I've noticed that with resin, the paint lifts with the masking. Hope this will work better.

Kylwell wrote:I've used both Gunze Mr Sufacer 1000 and 1200 though an airbrush thinned with Mr. Leveling Thinner.

Or, if you want something a little easier, try Valejo's Grey Primer.

Having trouble locating Mr Leveling Thinner, is there anything else that can be used?

I run a 10 gallon tank. I removed the hose it came with and attached a valve with a quick release connection. The valve is to replace the thumb valve/input port that came with the tank. A 2' hose with quick connector is attached to the tank. At the other end of the hose is a water trap/air filter fo...

Ship modeler's do it all the time, ie frame & plank. However, if I were you I would not leave the gaps but butt the plastic strips against each other. Then rough sand to shape & apply the putty to smooth out the shape.

Also, if you buy sandpaper at a hardware or automotive store like I do, be sure you get the stuff that states "wet and dry". Otherwise you get quite a mess.

I also used Bare Metal Foil. A little more expensive but great results. Only problem is removal. However, I stumbled upon a solution using balled masking tape to lift a corner then tweezers to remove the foil. But you need to wait until the paint is cured for this technique as the tape sometimes lif...

So what is the 1/48 scale model? Could be the scale is mis-represented, ie not 1/48?

Some good suggestions to trying scaled pilot figures in the seat.

You may also ask John at MMI for this service as well.

One of the ideas I have thought about but haven't tried yet is to use the half-round strips available from Evergreen attached to the wings and then sand off excess. Of course, this would not be practical if the wing is quite thinck as for large projects.

I have seen single LEDs that blink without an external circuit. However, not sure how they will work with others nor how to control blink rate. Most of my applications I need the blinking rate to be the same for several LEDs, thus have not had the opportunity to play with these.

When I lived down in the Maritimes, we in the MSFM called greeblies "kibblie bits". I still use this term, its only been in the forum here that I've used greeblie. Our term for it came from a the name of a dry dog food (Kibbles'n'Bits) available in Canada.

I've used BMF for masking for years. The only problem I've had with it was getting it off the model. Trying to get a corner to lift generally resulted in sctratching up the protected surface. Solution was to take balled up masking tape and dab at the foil until it lifts then take tweezers and pull o...

I paint a basecoat of gunmetal, followed by a black wash or two and then drybrush with flat aluminum. I use aluminum as it is not as reflective as silver or steel.

Also, if you haven't done this, allow the paint to dry over night as a minimum, better if 1-2 days before masking. Although the paint may be dry to the touch after a few minutes to hours, it has not yet fully cured. Masking before it ha cured will cause it to lift up when the masking is removed. BTW...

WRT painter's masking tape, I am not sure if the colour means anything. It could be just different manufacturers or one possibility may be that the different colours are of different tackiness. The Tamiya masking tape is less tacky than painter's tape and also the edges tend to be much less ragged t...

There is an article entitled "Model Lighting 101" that explains basic circuits for lighting models. Here's a couple of links: www.culttvman.com/assets/Model_Lighting_.pdf http://www.starshipmodeler.com/events/wfest2k2/ModelLighting(WFST02Rev).doc For some reason, the "(WFST02Ev).doc&q...

I often use an old toothbrush in conjunction with the Easy-Off.

Part of the issue may also be the age of the decals, how long the have been on the kit (here I am assuming that they were not originally sealed), how they were put on (ie soaked until modt the glue disolveed etc). I have some junk models/parts that were decaled and never sealed. I swear the decals w...

Your conversions are correct. However, I think the size of the church is rather small (even for a small country church). I would at least double all the measurements you have quoted. Most churches of the would have had a steeple where a bell would be housed and a cross mounted. Also, take a drive ar...