Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

I have been doing some more thinking about your situation. You say the kit has 85 lights in it. Based on what is seen in the movie I can only count the landing pad lights and interiors of the spherical habitats as needing illumination. Still you say you need 85 lights and that is a considerable amou...

One way to determine if things on a model are aligned and level is to use a surface gauge. This is simply a pointed object held firmly in a vise or other means with a flat level base. The model is placed on a flat, level surface with the gauge and the pointer is aligned at some reference point on th...

What kind of lighting effect are you looking for. Steady on- LED and resistor Blinking/pulsating- the above plus electronics like a charging capacitor. Blinking LEDs are commercially available. Blinking at a certain rate or pattern- requires logic chips and circuitry. This is the most expensive mean...

Great build for your kit Stargazer! I've been waiting to see it done since you first announced it. Personally what I would do if I have to light several lights like the landing pad, would be to use fiber optics. But with a model like this that may be difficult unless it sits on top of a base. Or the...

I'd like to comment that some posts as well as thread I started was lost when the site went down.

I now understand about the red star but I don't understand why some page icons are scrolling while others are stationary. Also will I always have to go the last posting to mark a thread as read? Although I guess I didn't know about marking all posts as read. Where is the "quote" function i...

I've always thought of model railroading as building a diorama that works.

A lot of times I will start with an initial concept and then as I'm building it something really neat I could do pops into my head and I think is this possible, what extra work would it take, how much does this push back my completion date?

Very Chris Fossian in design.

Kylwell wrote:JB Weld would be my pick too.

JBweld would be good too. It dries very hard. Since the piece is metal it shouldn't attack anything.

Whenever I have gaps to fill I use Super glue. How much I use depends on the gap I need filling. Since I don't know your situation I suggest using a small amount on one area to see how it works.

The kit mold release I used worked fine.

When I needed to make some shallow domes for an antenna I first made a small dome using styrene, a plastic rod and Bondo that I spun on a drill to create the rounded shape. This was my positive mold. Then using Vaselene I put more Bondo on top of my dome piece to create a block. After the bond set I...

I wouldn't worry about detail parts unless you can identify specific parts on the original. And even with that the average modeler won't be able to tell the difference. Basically you are trying to busy up an area with "greeblies" and you should go with the over-all look based what is seen ...

KWSTAS wrote:I like it a lot.Now build a base as a small diorama so it looks like crushed and abandoned.

Make it look like a crash scene. Reminds me of artwork done by Chris Foss for a book with a crashed spacecraft and the pilots skeleton still in the cockpit.