Starship Modeler Discussion Forums

...My only regret is the big box of "stuff to re-file" that builds up over a very brief time. I hear that. There was a time when all my Lego was sorted & organized by shape (and some even by color). A decade later I've got 3 banker boxes of unsorted pieces. *sigh* No stone to throw th...

Organize...greeblies? You can do that?

There is also gap filling CA and baking soda. The results are fairly hard and it can be used to build up as well as fill.

i used wrap the smaller drill bits in electrical tape so that it will hold it. you have to go slower so that the lowered friction won' make it slip. but it does work. but i got a little battery operated dremel for chrismas. this was one of those crappy $5 ones that they sell in the isles at kohls, ...

I would love to see this finished.

If you have access a Jacobs 0-B chuck. I got one some 40 years ago through the tool crib. I cut a shaft to mount it to the Dremel tool. It's heavy for the Dremel so I use it sparingly. I ruined one tool with the high speed use of the beast.

Decent paint on the brush.

I'm going to second epoxy for big stuff. I only use CA on the little guys. And I like the needle Idea. And yes it will fly right at your eyes. I also suggest sticking the other end in a dowel rod for better control and so you don't loose it. Pre drill a bit and glue it in. I have a glass tube and wi...

I did discover one online manufacturer...it wasn't too expensive.I think the 24" dia. acrylic domes were somewhere between $100-$200?I don't recall exactly.The 36" domes were closer to $300.00.The domes come with a flange that (in some cases) needs to be removed.I think they provide the d...

I go to war gaming, they have the same issues. While I don';t liker citadel paint I do like their primers, I keep white and black on hand.

Estes, the model rocket people, makes a wonderful cylinder marking and fin alinement kit. I have one and it is worth having if you never build a model rocket that takes engines. It is great for keeping the lines straight on cylinders.

I see it as more of a case of "When does it not happen?" I've never started a scratch and had it come out exactly as I conceived it to start with. Not to say I am not happy with the results.

If you are filling holes or gaps with CA a touch of banking soda on the glue after you place it makes it harder and dries it faster.

I've use Zap for years, and hated the stuff. The bottle lasts much longer than most. The Devil's Brew. It has uses to be sure. But I never use it if sheer forces are going to be in play. From the recommendations Gorilla will be tried. One use is to soak cardboard or wood. The end result is a fibrous...

I do have a really crazy idea about using a laser diode from a DVD or Blu Ray burner to burn tiny holes. I've seen a bunch of videos of people using laser diodes to light matches, engrave wood, and pop balloons, but I wonder if anyone has ever tried it with drilling holes in polystyrene or resin......

Having seen a few of the caps so mentioned I would use 10:1 rubber as it is firmer than the usual 1:1 mix.

Small chisel indeed, you might not even need a hammer of any kind. There are also exact-o blades that will meet the need.

I don't like power around high precision work.

A question to the casting crowd.

I was just pouring rubber and grumbling about my spatulas' lack of flexibility.

Now I know that RTV sticks to RTV like nothing else. What about food grade silicon spatulas? Can they be used more than once, or do they mate with the RTV never to part?

I got an old Vinyl Horizon Ed-209 yesterday. The problem is that is built and painted (not very weel). I have already disasemled it, that wasn't a big problem. But I can't seem to get the paint of. I have tried ovencleaner that didn't do annything. Does any of you guys have another suggestion. I ha...

If it's a silicone mold, you do not need any release. If it's a urethane, for gods sake soak that sucker in it!! If you do feel the need to use release, make sure it's a paintable type. The paint will bead up otherwise. The paint will come right off the mold. I have in the past painted a mold, and ...

I have never done a kit with extensive photoetch aftermarket parts before. My first one, sadly, is NOT looking too good. Hasegawa F-15 in 1:72, Eduard photoetch parts. The problem is the grills, they get saturated with the thin CA glue and loose all their detail. I'm not going to say much more, but...

Johnnycrash wrote: Give the mold a shot of paint. Let that cure out, and you should be ready to go. You can give it several good coats without it building up too much.

With or without mold release first?

Does there exist a substance I can coat a RTV rubber mold with to keep CA glue from bonding with it? I have a bad mold I need to use as a jig (it will never see resin again) And I do not want to fight getting the model back out. If that will not work I am bonding glass to resin, what glue will stick...